A fishing shack in the cool waters of Lake Tawar, frequently referred to as Takangone Lake after the largest town.

When I first arrived in Aceh, I noticed on a map of the province that a large lake sat right smack center in the mountainous interior. I asked around, and at the time, no one I knew had been there. It was still an unsettled and off limits area for most people due to the recent separatist movement. But its location and elevation still looked inviting. I eventually made my way there the following year and since became my favorite area of Aceh.

The area is called the Gayo Highlands, a cool escape from the steamy heat of the lowlands. The gem of the area is Lake Tawar, sitting at 3000ft above sealevel in an ancient volcano caldera. Lake Tawar is great for swimming and kayaking, but bring your own! Because you won't find any for rent. The closest thing the locals have seen to a kayak are dugout canoes. The area around the lake is commonly referred to as Takengon, the largest town sitting on the lake's western shores. A road rings the lake and is now paved the whole way, a great half day bike ride. If you want anything longer, head east of the lake and enter the uncharted countryside.

Setting off

Kayaking Lake Tawar (Takengon Lake)

A climber waves in the clouds on Bur ni Telong's 2624m / 8653ft high summit .

When you're in the Takengon area, a nice half day trek is Bur ni Telong, a large and isolated volcano north of Takengon and 4km south of the larger Mount Geuredong massif. The volcano is active and there are massive landslides on its southern face. A large part of the peak collapsed in the 26 December 2004 Indian Ocean Earthquake.

The trek starts in a coffee plantation near the village of Lampahan, one hour north of Takengon on the road to Bireuen, approximately 6 hours away from Banda Aceh. The trek may be short, but it is demanding as you climb straight up the volcano's slopes. Slippery mud, ledges and for the first half, heavy vegetation add to the challenge. Clouds often envelop the summit so an early, even a pre-dawn start is highly recommended.

Sliding down a muddy slope in Bur ni Telong's cloud forest.

A group of hikers rest on Bur ni Telong's lower pinnacle.

Guides

Hasbi (speaks Indonesian only)
+62 (0) 852 6218 8562

If this is your first time, guides are essential for route-finding in the forest. Insist that they actually accompany you up the mountain and do not abandon you in the coffee plantation. Also they will want to bring as many guides as there are trekkers and will charge you accordantly, insist you only need one or two for a group of five.

Getting There

Public transport is present, but it's extremely slow and involves a transfer in the town of Bireuen. Most people hire a car and driver from Banda Aceh for the 6 hour road trip.

Transport Contact:
Mendel Pols (speaks Indonesian, Dutch and English)
acehexplorer@gmail.com
+62 (0) 812 698 4216